Stop Safely Now + Empty Coolant reservoir - Won't drive

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New member
Dec 2, 2022
I drove 10 miles to my parent's yesterday in my 2012 FFE. The wrench Icon lit up while driving. I got there fine but when I was trying to leave, the dreaded 'Stop Safely Now' appeared and the car won't drive(Green Arrows don't light up). I checked the coolant reservoir and it is basically empty.

Based on reading the SSN mega-thread, it seems I could be in bad shape - with coolant leaking into the battery.

A question I have is... if the leak is outside the battery, would zero-coolant trigger the SSN message? Should I try filling it back up with coolant and then resetting the codes with ForScan? And then obviously try to fix the leak?

Anyway, I'm preparing for the worst. Thanks for any help. :)
I don't think you would get an SSN for low coolant. When I had my battery replaced a few years ago, the dealer forgot to put the coolant back in. I drove home just fine. The problem I had was when charging...the on-board AC to DC converter would get too hot and shut itself down with a charging failure. So unfortunately, it is probably leaking into the battery. This seems to be generally limited to the upper battery pack. I hear that there are two plugs at the bottom of the upper battery pack...accessible from under the car that can be popped out. If you pull those and see coolant, you would have your answer.

If that is the case, there is documentation on this site about pulling that battery pack apart and drying things off. I don't think this issue means that the battery is destroyed. The BECM detects something different about the load because of the coolant and refuses to start the car. All the logic boards for controlling the battery are on top and should be ok. If you get it dried before the corrosion sets in, perhaps you'd have a chance to save it. The procedure listed on this site basically deletes the liquid cooling of the upper battery, and many think that should be fine...but it is ultimately up to you.
Here is the link to skyguy_6153
(tearing the pack apart and removing anything related to upper pack cooling, along with doing the coolant bypass)
Thanks so much for the info and that link! This gives me some hope! I have a brother who owns a repair shop, so I think I'll have it towed there and give him this information. I'll keep you posted on any success/failure!

Btw, how quickly are we talking as far as corrosion? It might take a week for the shop to get to it. Should I try to dry it out myself asap do you think?

Thanks again! :)

davideos said:
Here is the link to skyguy_6153
(tearing the pack apart and removing anything related to upper pack cooling, along with doing the coolant bypass)
Before you pull it apart, make sure to pull the error code with ForScan. It could absolutely be a battery problem that needs you to crack it open but it's not a guarantee.
There are rubber "drain plugs" that you can easily reach from laying on the ground behind the car. I believe it is the "upper" or rear most battery pack that most often leaks. If you pull the drain plug and coolant comes out, you have made your diagnosis.

Scroll down in this thread for drawings of where the drain plugs are.
Confirmed coolant leak in the upper battery pack. Exploring some options now, but if anyone in/around Minnesota wants to buy the car off me, let know.