Failed High Voltage Battery

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What's the actual fault code it posts? SOBDM is the module name for the charger.

There's not much between the port and the charger, depending on the actual fault you might be able to fix the existing part.
They didn't give me any other fault code. If that is the part number, it seems to confirm to me that the local dealer here in Atlanta doesn't really know what they are doing. I've ordered a FORscan device so I can, hopefully, read the fault codes myself. It should arrive on Friday. I will let you know the code once I get the Forscan.
Until you get the interface and Forscan, you can use Engineering test mode to read some fault codes.
So I was finally able to read the fault codes. I didn't get any of this info from the local dealer, which again suggests that they don't know how to deal with these cars. Here is the info from Forscan. I already tried resetting the SOBDM. That didn't work. Any other suggestions?

Code: U3000 - Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom:
- System Internal Failures

- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Secondary OBD Control Module A

Freeze Frame :
-REAL_TIME: 264771509 s - Global real time
-TOTAL_DIST: 110053.0 km - Total Distance
-MAIN_BCCM_VOLT: 12.00 V - Main ECU voltage supply
-EXTERIOR_TEMP: 20 °C - Outside temperature
-PCM_SOBDM_PSR: PSR On - PCM to SOBDM Wakeup Status
-PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode Undefined - Power Mode Quality Factor
-PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State
-INT_FAULT_CODE: 32 - Internal Fault Code
In the service manual, it says this for that code:

"U3000:04 Control Module: System Internal Failure INSTALL a new SOBDM .
REFER to: Secondary On-Board Diagnostic Control Module A (SOBDM) (414-03B High Voltage Battery Charging System, Removal and Installation)."

But it also says this:

"U3000:41 Control Module: General Checksum Failure CLEAR the DTC . REPEAT the self-test. If the DTC is still present, INSTALL a new GFM .
REFER to: Generic Function Module (GFM) (414-03B High Voltage Battery Charging System, Removal and Installation)."

So the SOBDM is the charger, the GFM is the module that deals with the lights and logic on the charge port.

You could use Forscan to reset and selftest the modules. I would think the GFM to be a much cheaper replacement part than the SOBDM. It could be a bad connection, or it might be a blown fuse inside of the SOBDM.
So I got the full diagnostic code. It seems like I might need a new SOBDM. If I understand correctly, replacing the SOBDM requires discharging and recharging the liquid cooling system, so probably not something I can DIY.

Here is the Forscan info:

===SOBDM DTC U3000:04-28===
Code: U3000 - Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom:
- System Internal Failures

- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Secondary OBD Control Module A

Freeze Frame :
-REAL_TIME: 265113883 s - Global real time
-TOTAL_DIST: 110060.0 km - Total Distance
-MAIN_BCCM_VOLT: 14.50 V - Main ECU voltage supply
-EXTERIOR_TEMP: 11 °C - Outside temperature
-PCM_SOBDM_PSR: PSR On - PCM to SOBDM Wakeup Status
-PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode Undefined - Power Mode Quality Factor
-PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State
-INT_FAULT_CODE: 32 - Internal Fault Code
===END SOBDM DTC U3000:04-28===
After 9 yrs 9 months and 92,000 miles my 2013 Ford Focus Electric has been diagnosed with a failed high voltage battery by the local Ford dealer. He wants $23,000 to replace it. Kelly Blue Book says it was only worth ~$3,000 if it was in good shape. I guess I have to say goodbye.

I joined this forum in 2013 when I was new to EVs and was concerned about battery life and range. The forum was helpful for reassurance.

At the time of purchase, I thought "Well if I get 8 to 10 years on the battery, it will have been a good investment." Now that it has been labeled DOA at the dealer, I'm still sad. It has been a very good car with almost no maintenance. I calculate it cost me $7.96 a day to drive.

My only complaint was the three "system failure; stop now" signals. In the past it has always been the 12V battery. This time changing the 12V didn't fix it. Fortunately this time was in the garage instead of in traffic where it definitely stops on its own.

It is still in beautiful shape with good tires and a brand new 12V battery. Seems like it would have useful parts for any 2013 Focus. I'm going to ask around but will probably try to donate it to charity.

May it rest in peace.
There are a few folks dealing with battery issues right now. Depending on what gets bought, it may be possible to get more than one vehicle fixed - but folks will need to coordinate.

Users that have noted battery issues in the last 2 months: Aidensmccormick, Bradleydad, Robonthecob Eltonmalone, Ainsleycare, Jon1eye
Exhausted, find out the type of failure that it is. If it is a coolant leak, that's one thing; however, it could be a contactor issue like I recently had and that is fixable with relatively little cost and effort.

Dealers will stop at the boundary of the battery when diagnosing. If it is anything inside...even if it would take 10 minutes or $0.10, they don't know and will send it to Ford. My dealer quoted me $14,000 for a replacement. But Forscan and Dealer gave a code for stuck positive was a stuck positive contactor. I bought a new contactor on eBay for $140 and did it myself. I also bought safety equipment and insulated tools, but after that, I was somewhat comfortable with doing the work.

I fixed it back in October and it has been working perfectly...but that is my experience; your mileage may vary.

But best of luck with whatever you do.
We are stronger as a group than as individuals. I am very concerned for people who are buying this vehicle used, and there is at least one media report of a Ford Focus Electric that had battery failure shortly after the car was bought used ( The replacement cost they were quoted in August of 2022 ($ 14K) is much lower than what I was quoted ($21K for the part alone, with taxes and labor additional), which I attribute to the diminishing number of batteries available since they are not being made anymore.

Numerous inquires to the Ford company about how they plan to treat the early adopters of their technology have been met with absolute indifference.

I've generated a form that can be used to record each of our experiences. I'm interested in reports of cars that are still running, as well as reports of cars that have had battery failure.

Suggestions welcome.

I've also started making comments on social media (twitter, etc) about this problem. I'm very careful to make the distinction between Electric Vehicles in general and Ford Electric Vehicles specifically. I still believe Electric Vehicles are the future of the automotive industry, but the Ford company has clearly made bad design decisions and then abandoned the early adopters of their technology. Potential future buyers of their electric vehicles need to be made aware that the Ford company does not stand by its product.

Ford replaced my battery on my 2013 while covered under 8 year drive train warranty.

How many years would you like ford to cover for?

Have have people I know not able to get engine parts for a car under 5 years old.
It was a bit of a disappointment.
Is this the type of issue that would be a good candidate for a class action lawsuit? Has anyone contacted any law firms that specialize in this to see what they thought and if they would be willing to take this on?
I'm no lawyer, but it doesn't seem that likely to me. Thinking of the class action lawsuit for the Ford focus / fiesta double clutch transmission, that still isn't settled and they uncovered documents showing that Ford knew of the issue with that transmission and sold the cars anyway. Lacking proof of intentional deception, it would probably be difficult. Although we want our cars to last forever and they usually do last a long time, the warrantee does not cover our expectations of the life of the car.

But you don't have to let that stop you. Find a good attorney and if they will take the case, you have nothing to lose.
Yes, I'm one of the current people with a coolant leak (2012 Focus Electric). Mine is in the lower High Voltage pack. I was lucky enough to find a 33.5 kWh battery set and bought them. I'm doing all my own work in garage at home. After replacing both packs, I had to program the BECM and PCM for the larger capacity batteries to be compatible with my 2012 vehicle. After getting that straightened out, I now have codes P0ABB and P0A95. I've gone through the Workshop Manual Pinpoint test and it leads to replacing the batteries again. One of the steps was to inspect their High Voltage Harness for damage and repair/replace the harness if needed. My connectors were brittle, so I decided to just replace the harness. The same codes are still there. I figure it's something with the internal wiring, So I'm taking apart my 23 kWh pack to transfer the internal wiring harness. I plan to see what cells are leaking and might have some spare 23 kWh battery modules for fellow owners or a future project. I might have found a 2013 Focus Electric in California that has coolant in one of the batteries. If I can get mine running again and the California one, I could have twins! I'm in Utah. If anyone out there is looking to sell their Focus Electric or is in need of some High Voltage Battery Pack parts, please let me know.
2/13/23. Same issue. 2014 FFE teen daughter got the message. Luckily as she was getting home. Car won’t start. Took to the dealer. Got the call yesterday. Both batteries need replacement. Car 8 year warranty ended November 2022 and only has 44k miles. Was told the battery is $26k plus labor.
I’m in Southern California.

Here was the dealer stated.

Inspect and verify customers' concerns. Vehicle would not start. Self-tested modules and found dic POAOA for battery energy control module. Inspect for tsbs and ssms. Vehicle does have a tsb available. Tsb 17-0045. Tsb was already performed at another dealership. Checked for connections and connectors for correct seating and position. No damage was found on connectors or connections. No wire damage was found on harnesses. Performed pinpoint test A in workshop manual 414-03A for BECM POAOA. Checked resistance between upper and lower high voltage battery packs and found openings between both upper and lower battery packs. Advise customers and recommend installing new upper and lower high voltage battery packs.