range question for current FFE owners

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This thread already has a lot of range discussion so I wanted to post my scenario here rather than in a new thread.

On Wednesday I'll be going to one of our manufacturing facilities for work. From home to that plant is 41.2 miles via the interstate. I've done some searching on Google maps and have found that the shortest route I can find is 40.5 miles (with 31 miles on the interstate). The most practical route that minimizes interstate miles is 41.2 miles (the same distance as the route taking the interstate the entire way) but only involves 13 miles on the freeway.

Temps on Wednesday are supposed to be in the mid-70s & sunny so I shouldn't need AC in the morning and won't need a lot in the afternoon.

I guess my question is: am I better off taking the 40.5 mile route and spending the 31 interstate miles at 55-60 MPH or taking the 41.2 mile route with lots of stops but the option to drive 45-50 MPH on county roads? I'm not sure if the conversion losses of stopping and starting on the 40.5 mile county road route are greater or less than the additional energy that would be expended by avoiding stops and sticking to the freeway at 55-60 MPH. I drive efficiently enough that the car currently predicts my range at 95-100 miles based on the 100 or so miles of driving that I've done so far. I only had one trip so far with less than a 100% brake score and the brake score in our Fusion Hybrid is 99% over 25,000 miles of driving. So, I will get the most out of each stop if I spend less time on the freeway but I still don't know what the efficiency is of regen braking on the Focus.

What route would you recommend?

Additional questions:
How can I program the navigation so that it will give me an accurate range prediction for the round trip from the morning? Do I set my work destination as a "waypoint" and then home as my destination answering that yes I will charge there?

How much of an effect does wind have on efficiency? In our Fusion Hybrid we'll see a 20% swing in MPG if we're driving into the wind one way and with it behind us the other way. It's too early for the forecast to include wind data for Wednesday, but it's basically always windy in MN. My wife comments on it regularly since it messes up her hair and she isn't used to having wind like we do here in MN.
 
I would think your best bet would be to take the freeway slowly: I just did two 60 mile round-trips all 100% via freeway at 65 mph and in both cases when I arrived home the car still showed 30 miles left "to empty".

To program a route with multiple stops in My Ford Touch:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/03/05/how-far-can-i-go-part-ii-using-the-car/
 
jmueller065 said:
I would think your best bet would be to take the freeway slowly: I just did two 60 mile round-trips all 100% via freeway at 65 mph and in both cases when I arrived home the car still showed 30 miles left "to empty".

To program a route with multiple stops in My Ford Touch:
http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/03/05/how-far-can-i-go-part-ii-using-the-car/
You're saying to just take the freeway the entire 41 miles and not do any side streets?

Thanks for the link. I knew I had read it on your blog but hadn't remembered when to search and find that post.
 
Yeah I would try the freeway at a slower speed. Once you've programmed in the route you can adjust your speed based on the status indicator.

If it looks like its going way negative (e.g. you'll never make it) you could always get off the freeway and switch to the alternate route (the nav system will automatically adjust after a while..for the first few miles it will start complaining, even telling you to turn around but eventually it will figure it out--its this reason that I turn all the nav prompts to beeps because I'm always going "off route" LOL).

In addition, when you program the nav system with your route you can take advantage of the "blue cup": Set the My Display up for the most information dense display (see here: http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/03/28/whats-with-that-blue-cup/ ). As long as you keep the two "tick marks" (which are average consumption) below the top of the blue cup you'll make it without issue. If you drive really efficiently you'll notice that the blue cup gets taller and taller as you get closer and if the blue cup goes all the way to the top: bingo! you can make it and turn the heater on!

The thing is: taking the alternate route is good because of the slow speed limits, but it isn't 100% efficient stopping and starting so you lose any gains by going slow when you stop (Remember 100% regen does not mean you regained 100% of the electricity you used to get up to speed, it just means that you've captured 100% of the electricity that the car is capable of recapturing. That value does not equal the amount of electricity it cost to get up to speed.)

If you found a route that was a couple of miles longer but was a long country road with a 45 mph speed limit and no stop signs--that would be ideal.
 
Reading complaints of how much energy is used going up hills immediately makes me suspect driving style is the culprit. Whatever your means of propulsion, hills use up a lot more energy. Try a slight deceleration going up hills and you will change your watt hrs per mile usage enormously.
 
Well if you can drive using about 250 Wh/mile or less then you'll get at least the EPA rated 76 miles on the battery. Thus that is a good starting point to shoot for.
 
Thanks Jamie. I'm hoping to also hear from unplugged, Vin, scoops, twscrap, wattsup, EVA, Michael and other long-time owners.

We've been averaging about 215 Wh/mi so far between my wife & myself driving around the Twin Cities, using the AC a fair bit with all the humidity lately.
 
jmueller065 said:
The thing is: taking the alternate route is good because of the slow speed limits, but it isn't 100% efficient stopping and starting so you lose any gains by going slow when you stop (Remember 100% regen does not mean you regained 100% of the electricity you used to get up to speed, it just means that you've captured 100% of the electricity that the car is capable of recapturing. That value does not equal the amount of electricity it cost to get up to speed.)
Exactly. That's why I expressed the question about which way is better. In the Fusion Hybrid/Energi the regen braking has been calculated at anywhere from 75-95% efficient depending on how you brake. Not all 100% brake scores are created equal. A 100% brake score really only tells you that you didn't engage the brake pads any more than absolutely necessary. But one stop might add 0.015 kWh to the battery and another might add 0.019 kWh to the battery with both stops beginning with the same kinetic energy on level ground due to differences in the efficiency of braking depending on how quickly or slowly you stop.
jmueller065 said:
In addition, when you program the nav system with your route you can take advantage of the "blue cup": Set the My Display up for the most information dense display (see here: http://jamiegeek.myevblog.com/2014/03/28/whats-with-that-blue-cup/ ). As long as you keep the two "tick marks" (which are average consumption) below the top of the blue cup you'll make it without issue. If you drive really efficiently you'll notice that the blue cup gets taller and taller as you get closer and if the blue cup goes all the way to the top: bingo! you can make it and turn the heater on!
Do I have to program the nav to get the white tick marks? I currently have the dash set to the Budget Text + something view where I have budget text on the left side of the screen & the blue cup on the right. I have not seen white tick marks. The blue cup seems to be around the level of our average consumption, about 200 Wh/mi.

In your blog post it sounds like you're talking about programming the "MyView" screen. I have that set up to display the accessory power demand & the historical efficiency graph in 6 minute increments.
 
Yes: "My View". In my "My View" I have the left panel set to "Accessory View" to get the climate power and the right panel set to "Budget + Avg" (The Avg is the tick marks). I also have everything checked on the options screen for "My View".
 
There is certainly a loss associated with stop & go (I think more to do with acceleration); most noticeable in city traffic.

But for rural traffic, I'm seeing up to a 15% difference between a surface route at 40-45 mph and interstate at 55-60 mph (that includes the stop/go factor) - aerodynamics trumps all! As Jamie pointed out - just keep an eye on your Wh/mi (or the guess-o-meter); if you have to bail to rural highway it's possible to average 200 Wh/mi.
 
If it were me, I would follow Gladestorm's plan of taking the interstate and then bail if you have to. If you are getting 215 Wh/mi at 45mph, I am betting that your consumption at 55mph will be economical enough to make the round trip.... unless there are significant elevation changes along the way. Is the interstate flat?
 
v_traveller said:
If it were me, I would follow Gladestorm's plan of taking the interstate and then bail if you have to. If you are getting 215 Wh/mi at 45mph, I am betting that your consumption at 55mph will be economical enough to make the round trip.... unless there are significant elevation changes along the way. Is the interstate flat?
It's constant rolling hills. The county roads would be the same. Minnesota is full of rolling hills. Very few flat stretches in the part of the state where we live.
 
If time isnt an issue, I recommend the rural route.
I do a lot of rural surface road driving and definitely get better energy efficiency on those roads with speed limits 40-55mph, despite the occasional stops, compared to highway driving at 55-60mph without stops. I mostly do a lot of urban surface road driving where my efficiency is between the two because of the 'need' to drive more aggressively on city streets to make green lights and stop suddenly more often. But on rural streets if you purposely accelerate gradually and anticipate stops, you'll average 180-225 Wh/mi. I also do a decent number of trips that approach FFE's range limit and in those trips I find it's much less anxiety provoking to start the trip out as efficiently as possible and if it works out, be able to drive more 'enthusiastically' on the home stretch, rather than try to improve my efficiency in the final legs and make that final kWh get me those last 6 miles! So I would humbly suggest the surface route out there, then possibly the express route back if it looks safe.
 
dmen said:
If time isnt an issue, I recommend the rural route.
I do a lot of rural surface road driving and definitely get better energy efficiency on those roads with speed limits 40-55mph, despite the occasional stops, compared to highway driving at 55-60mph without stops. I mostly do a lot of urban surface road driving where my efficiency is between the two because of the 'need' to drive more aggressively on city streets to make green lights and stop suddenly more often. But on rural streets if you purposely accelerate gradually and anticipate stops, you'll average 180-225 Wh/mi. I also do a decent number of trips that approach FFE's range limit and in those trips I find it's much less anxiety provoking to start the trip out as efficiently as possible and if it works out, be able to drive more 'enthusiastically' on the home stretch, rather than try to improve my efficiency in the final legs and make that final kWh get me those last 6 miles! So I would humbly suggest the surface route out there, then possibly the express route back if it looks safe.
That's my thought too. I'll be on my way soon and will report back how it goes.
 
Here are some pics from this morning:


Upon arriving it shows that I should have plenty of range to get home.


212 Wh/mi for the trip.

The amount of county roads that I took included 2 round-abouts and 1 stop sign. That was the only stopping/slowing that was extra versus taking the freeway.

Also, I searched and didn't find an answer... Why are some bars blue & some yellow? I know that the blue ones are all lower than some threshold, but what threshold? Average energy consumption?
 
Yes: Yellow above the blue cup, blue below the blue cup.
Thus with no trip set it is power consumption required to make the initial range.
With a trip set it is power consumption required to make the trip (e.g. yellow = over average required for the trip).
 
hybridbear - did you reset one of your trip meters prior to leaving? If so, what is the kWh usage for this leg?
EDIT - nevermind - I see you used 8.7kWh. Oops!

Also - is there an elevation difference between your plant and home? At this point if home is lower or if there's no difference, you should have ample margin.
 
v_traveller said:
hybridbear - did you reset one of your trip meters prior to leaving? If so, what is the kWh usage for this leg?
EDIT - nevermind - I see you used 8.7kWh. Oops!

Also - is there an elevation difference between your plant and home? At this point if home is lower or if there's no difference, you should have ample margin.
Elevation is relatively equal.

I didn't reset a trip meter but I did take a pic.

I'm using one trip meter to track monthly electricity use for our apartment building management and the other one I reset at each 1000 mile odometer increment to measure longer term efficiency.
 
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