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BTW if my math is right, and the 30% rebate on level 2 chargers still holds true a Clipper Creek could be $350 + install? I'm getting much closer to thinking a level 2 wouldn't be bad, even if it was hard wired to the house.

According to Nissan the 8911 form the 30% off still applies. I'm trying to figure out if I can sling that 240v line up into the ceiling and use a pully down cord real like I had for my air lines.
IMG_0404.jpg
 
az erik said:
BTW if my math is right, and the 30% rebate on level 2 chargers still holds true a Clipper Creek could be $350 + install? I'm getting much closer to thinking a level 2 wouldn't be bad, even if it was hard wired to the house.
What 30% rebate are you referring to? Something in AZ?

AFAIK, the LCS-25 can currently be had for $495.
 
as I wrote you can adjust the amperage on the EVSEupgrade.com but the FOCUS 120v unit is not very good so they only upgrade the LEAF and a few other 120v cord sets. Ford really should step up and make their unit able to do 120/240 and have all the adapter cords with it !

quote from= http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2
You also get an advanced Anti-Theft security system and easily programmable amperage settings, so you can "dial it down" if you are on a limited power outlet, or you really want a "trickle" charge, say for example; in airport long-term parking.
 
WattsUp said:
az erik said:
BTW if my math is right, and the 30% rebate on level 2 chargers still holds true a Clipper Creek could be $350 + install? I'm getting much closer to thinking a level 2 wouldn't be bad, even if it was hard wired to the house.
What 30% rebate are you referring to? Something in AZ?

AFAIK, the LCS-25 can currently be had for $495.
Form 8911
http://www.afdc.energy.gov/laws/law/US/10513
Extended through Dec 31st 2013 yeilds 30% rebate for EVSE's so $500 x 30% off is $350 + install (30% off the install costs too, I just don't know whow much that is). I;m about to pull the trigger but I want to make sure I'm sticking with it. (My first from 25% charge to 100% will be the tarot card)
 
ClipperCreek is now offering a "portable version" of the LCS-25, the LCS-25P, complete with your choice of pre-attached NEMA plug. Not that the LCS-25 wasn't already very portable (see this entire thread), but they've just made it even easier!

News article:
http://insideevs.com/clippercreek-launches-lcs-25p-worlds-smallest-cord-and-plug-connected-20-amp-charger/

Product pages:
http://stores.buyevse.com/-strse-26/Charging-Stataion--fdsh--LCS-dsh-25P%2C/Detail.bok
http://stores.buyevse.com/-strse-27/Charging-Station--fdsh--LCS-dsh-25P%2C/Detail.bok

The new LCS-25P is priced at $549, a tad more than the LCS-25, which can still be had for $495. But, $54 for an already-attached 240V plug isn't so bad. Also, with the LCS-25P, you won't have to modify the unit in any way, and risk voiding the 3-year warranty. If you opt for the L6-30 version (the second product link above), then you could create or purchase adapters like I showed in this thread, for flexible portable plugging.

Here's a great place to purchase ready-made L6-30-based adapters:
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index&cPath=7
 
WattsUp said:
ClipperCreek is now offering a "portable version" of the LCS-25, the LCS-25P, complete with your choice of pre-attached NEMA plug.
My problem with the Clipper Creek is that it is a 20 amp charger. If I am mobile, I want the most powerful unit that the FFE can take. Otherwise, I have to wait even longer for the charge before I can take off.
 
unplugged said:
WattsUp said:
ClipperCreek is now offering a "portable version" of the LCS-25, the LCS-25P, complete with your choice of pre-attached NEMA plug.
My problem with the Clipper Creek is that it is a 20 amp charger. If I am mobile, I want the most powerful unit that the FFE can take. Otherwise, I have to wait even longer for the charge before I can take off.
Yeah, but you need somewhere safe to plug it in!

If you have a 30-amp dryer socket (very common in the wild, especially households), the safest you can draw for long periods is 24 amps (80% of the circuit's maximum rating). True, the LCS-25 would be all the nicer if it could operate at the "full" 24 amps, but that works out to only a 30-minute difference during a full change for the FFE, or around a 15-minute difference for a half-charge, etc..

Anyway, any higher than 20-24 amps and you'll need to start looking for a 50-amp socket (less common in the wild) to safely plug into, or a 30-amp socket with a known high-amperage circuit behind it (likely 40-amp, but you might have trouble finding this combo and being absolutely sure of it too).

I like the LCS-25 because I can safely plug in at almost anybody's house.
 
Had a thought and wanted to get input.

The idea came from Honda's series of generators that can be 'daisy chained' to produce higher wattage/amps.


So here goes....

Based on how a 240V circuit is currently wired into the breaker panel i.e.: it has 2 physical connections onto the busbar and creates two ' legs' on the connection side for you to connect your 2 wire connections for a level 2 charger.

So why couldn't you create a 'daisy chain' using 2 - 15A wall outlets? This would essentially give you 2 x 15A 110V feeds/legs that could be combined to achieve 220/240V @ 30A. (obviously you would have to make sure the 15A outlets you used were indeed on a different circuit/breaker & didn't have a large draw on them like a fridge for ex.)

It seems like this would work. A couple of 25 foot extension cords (to make sure you connected to 15A circuits on opposite walls or ends of the house) and then a 'combining' plug/pigtail that would get you to a 30A connection that would match up to the LCS - 25 and you would be in business.

This suddenly makes almost any location that has 2 - 15A 110V outlets on separate breakers a viable charging option.

Am I crazy or would this work?
 
jmueller065 said:
I don't think you can add them: the 30A will be going through each hot line so you'd still trip the breaker(s).

Dang it you are right! I forgot about that little technicality in my excitement of devising the idea. However, theoretically if a charger was around that only required 2 x 12AMP legs ( to stay within 80%) then you could effectively double the charge rate of the charger that is included with the car.

Could be useful but prob not practical, especially since I dont think a low amp draw 240v charger exists...
 
PowerstrokeNC said:
Could be useful but prob not practical, especially since I dont think a low amp draw 240v charger exists...
Also less practical because the chance of finding two conveniently-located 120V outlets on different legs of the same power supply is probably fairly low.

Btw, evseupgrade.com will modify a stock Nissan EVSE to charge at as low as 6 amps on 240V:
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

They also sell them directly, but for cost of about $1000.
 
Also less practical because the chance of finding two conveniently-located 120V outlets on different legs of the same power supply is probably fairly low.


I was thinking this too, but upon closer inspection it seems that a 240V breaker taps into the same bus bar, so I don't think you actually need to be on each leg of the original power supply ( I could be wrong), you just have to have 2 separate outlets on 15A breakers. From what I have seen in new construction anyway looks like several outlets in a room and even some of the lights might be on one 15A breaker. This is where I thought you could use outlets that are far away from each other such as different rooms on the opposite ends of the house for example.
Or you could pick one of your circuits you know would be different such as a GFCI circuit for wet areas (kitchen) these always tend to be on their own feed from the panel and not 'shared' with anything else.
 
PowerstrokeNC said:
...So why couldn't you create a 'daisy chain' using 2 - 15A wall outlets? This would essentially give you 2 x 15A 110V feeds/legs that could be combined to achieve 220/240V @ 30A. (obviously you would have to make sure the 15A outlets you used were indeed on a different circuit/breaker & didn't have a large draw on them like a fridge for ex.)

I've done this but there are at least two very serious safety concerns. Before I get to them, as jmueller065 pointed out, you are limited to 15A and you can't use an outlet with ground fault protection because it will immediately trip. The first safety concern has already been discussed in this thread. There is no way to automatically scale the amps down to 15 when you connect this up. What kind of outlet will you have in your combiner box?

The second safety concern is one that everyone easily forgets, even if you are aware of it. As soon as you plug in one of the extension cords, the plug of the second extension cord will be hot. I'm talking about the prongs on the plug which are really easy to touch. Consider the scenario (I'm familiar with it because I've done it): You plug in one cord and then you have to try multiple other outlets to find one that's on the opposite phase. In this process you are continually handling the hot plug and mostly thinking about other things like "Will it reach?" or "Maybe this one's on the other phase?" etc. It's very easy to forget that the prongs you have in your hand are hot. Ask me how I know!

In theory you can get around this by not plugging your EVSE into the combiner box until both cords are plugged in. But that's easy to forget because you need to know if it will reach (remember you can't use typical outdoor GFCI outlets). And most combiner boxes have LEDs or small volt meters to indicate when you have 240v, so they will always be hot. The only way to overcome this issue is to add a relay that won't power the second plug until it's plugged in. To find out how to wire that, search the Leaf and Tesla forums where it's been discussed.

And finally, make sure you don't damage your EVSE by applying 115v when it's made for 200 - 240.
 
WattsUp - thanks for posting this!!!

After driving the ActiveE for two years, I never found the need for a portable L2 EVSE. Due to the decreased range of the FFE, however, I've had to rethink this position as some our our routine round-trip destinations were at the edge of the ActiveEs capability and just not achievable with the FFE.

Just ordered a LCS-25P with a L6-30 plug. Also took WindPowered's advice and ordered a couple of L6-30R 2' Cord Cuts. Just need to confirm what the in-laws have for an outlet and decide on other adapters to acquire at this point.
 
twscrap said:
WattsUp - thanks for posting this!!! ... Just ordered a LCS-25P with a L6-30 plug. ...
You're welcome... I think you'll be pleased with the LCS. Mine has been flawless. It's awesome that ClipperCreek came out with the plug versions.

Let us know how it goes!
 
PowerstrokeNC said:
...especially since I dont think a low amp draw 240v charger exists...
The EMW Juicebox charging station is fully adjustable for amperage. (Although on the base version, you have to open the box up.)

http://www.emotorwerks.com/products/online-store/product/show/44-customizable-juicebox-an-open-source-level-2-15kw-ev-charging-station
 
WattsUp said:
Btw, evseupgrade.com will modify a stock Nissan EVSE to charge at as low as 6 amps on 240V:
http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=3

They also sell them directly, but for cost of about $1000.
FYI, EVSEUpgrade is running a special -- new 120/240V 6-25A adjustable-current EVSE with an L6-30R plug for $649. Much more attractive than the base $1k price IMO.
 
rabar10 said:
FYI, EVSEUpgrade is running a special -- new 120/240V 6-25A adjustable-current EVSE with an L6-30R plug for $649. Much more attractive than the base $1k price IMO.
You're talking about this one I presume?

http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5

(There is more than one product for $649 at EVSEUpgrade.)
 
WattsUp said:
You're talking about this one I presume?

http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=5

(There is more than one product for $649 at EVSEUpgrade.)
Yep, thanks for adding the link.
 
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