Is There a Way to Force Charging?

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27ace27

Active member
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
40
Howdy All,

My salvage auction 2012 FFE was delivered on Thursday and through clearing the DTCs I was able to get it to drive. Unfortunately my assumption that if it would drive it would also charge has proven incorrect, so it is currently stuck a few miles away at the nearest charger (I live in an apartment and this is my first EV). The DTCs it throws seem to vary, but it's always some combination of P0AA6:00 (BECM), P0A95:00 (BECM), and P0AA0:01 (PCM), which makes me think either burnt contactor, leaking coolant, or both.

For now though, is there a way to force the vehicle to charge so I don't get towed? The battery has 0 miles of range.

Paul
 
Quick addendum: I have pulled both HV disconnects and they both test fine (<0.3 ohms). I plan to blow them out with some compressed air before re-seating them and trying again. I doubt this will help though as they were both pretty clean inside. I also doubt that the isolation fault is being caused by corrosion around the connector as this is a desert car.
 
Update #2: no sign of moisture in the lower pack.

Can the cover of the upper pack be removed without removing the pack from the car? If I can get the cover off, I'm thinking there's a good chance the pack will dry out enough in the desert heat to at least take a charge.
 
Yes, you can remove the cover for the battery while the pack is still in the car. I'd do it time to time when I to see how much quicker the car would accelerate :lol: . You'll want to remove the screws circled in green, along with the ones on the back of the cover. The front of the cover has a lip, so be carful when lifting it out.



 
Aha! I missed a couple of bolts. Also the bottom left one on the rear wouldn't come out for some reason...

I'll try one last time to charge it tonight, then I'll tow it home and pull the pack. Do we actually know where the leaks typically come from? Living in Arizona, I'd like to retain the cooling capability if possible.
 
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