Surge protector melting!

[gu12u7]

I'm using a level 1 (120V) charge at home in my garage, plugging into a belkin surge protector then to the wall outlet.

In the beginning it was fine, after a software update, i'd notice the surge protect plactic around the socket is starting to melt. it's turning brown and getting darker.

my question is, should i use a extension cord instead? plug it straight to the wall? or need a new surge protector?
thinking about getting this instead of the surge protector
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066GNWW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what is the amp for the level 120V charge?

any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[WattsUp]

Yipes! Amperage for the OEM EVSE is probably about 12 amps, which is pretty much the maximum amperage you'd want to pull for long a duration (like charging your EV) through a normal 15-amp household socket. (The guideline for is 80% of the maximum rated amperage and 15 * 0.8 = 12)

I'd suggest that your surge protector is not really up to task of passing 12 amps for long periods of time. What is its rating?

Is there some reason you can't just plug the EVSE into the well socket directly? Also, if you must use an extension cable, you should use only a high quality cable, robust and definitely rated for at least 15 amps.

That all said... extension cord or no, I'd suggest that there is little reason to "surge protect" your EVSE. It is likely already a fairly robust device (and whose main function is already also to protect your FFE).

 

[v_traveller]

thinking about getting this instead of the surge protector
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066GNWW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've recently run into a problem with an outdoor GFI receptacle that I plug into nightly; until I figure it out, I'm running a 12 gauge 50ft extension cord from the garage:

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-12-gauge-tripletap-extension-cord-with-indicator-light-96709.html

Works great - no noticeable heat dissipation, so I'm guessing that it's beefy enough for the job.

I originally ran a garden variety (literally used for gardening/yard work) 14 gauge 50ft extension rated for 15A, but it would heat up noticeably at the plugs. So I paid a visit to Harbor Freight Tools and bought the 12 gauge, armed with a 25% off coupon and a coupon for a free LED flashlight.

So long story short (yeah I know, too late, like always), I'd pass on that particular amazon.com offering and go for one that's 12 gauge or better.

 

[davideos]

If you go to a home improvement store, or even Harbor Freight, look for a 12guage cord like v_traveller, but also consider the receptacle on the wall and on the extension cord if you really want to have a good setup. Make sure the extension cord you use has a snug fit. 12guage wire and 20A components will give you the best trouble free operation. Hopefully the breaker in your service panel is 20A, which would likely mean that the wiring from the breaker to your receptacle is 12guage....and that your wall receptacle is also 20A. This will give you the lowest amount of "heat". With repeated use, heat will cause contacts at the receptacle to oxidize and in turn create more resistance. With more resistance, more heat. More heat, things melt...which is why your powerstrip melted. As v_traveller noted, the 12guage extension cord did not heat up. 15A / 14 guage will work, but 20A / 12 guage is better.

 

[jeffand]

Repeated plugging and unplugging a cord into a socket flexes the metal contacts. The flexing of the metal will reduce contact pressure. With less pressure will increase the electrical resistance. More resistance means more heat. If you are replacing a high use socket, replace it with a commercial grade socket.

 

[westom]

what is the amp for the level 120V charge?

Is the charger plug a standard NEMA 5-15 plug (standard wall plug)? That physical construction defines an appliance that will draw less than 15 amps. Is the receptacle on a power strip compatible with the AC plug? If yes, that strip must safety provide 15 amps.

Does the power strip have an UL Listing (label)? If not, why did you even let it in the house? If a UL label exists, then the strip must have a 15 amp circuit breaker. Essential as emergency backup protection should a consumer connect more than 15 amps of appliances.

That power strip burned only on a 15 amp load? A major threat to human life. Everyone who replied should have known that.

Even a $4 power strip in Walmart would have safety provided those 15 amps. However, some manufacturers are marketing to the naive. Add ten cent protector parts to sell it for $20 or $80. Anyone can do the arithmetic. Grossly undersized protector strips have a history of creating fires. Everyone who replied should have also known of that threat.

Yes, the extension cord is probably a safer option. Meanwhile be concerned about destructive surges that occur maybe once every seven years. If a destructive current is all but invited inside, then it goes hunting for earth ground destructively via the dishwasher, furnace, dimmer switches, or even Focus. Informed consumers do not waste money on plug-in protectors. And spend maybe tens or 100 times less money on an earthed 'whole house' protector. To protect the Focus and all household appliances. To protect the most critically important item when a surge exists: smoke detectors.

jeffand has also defined why some more expensive receptacles are used in places such as the kitchen. And why to consider his warning.

 

[davideos]

As for power strips; plastic cheap power strips, even UL ones, are a significant source of home fires. Cheap powerstrip manufacturers may counterfeit UL labels. Powerstrips are not really intended for large loads anyway. CPSC has recalled over a thousand of these things. Anyway, I think the take away here is to do it right. Use of a quality higher capacity extension cord is good as a temporary solution, but I think a properly installed outlet would be the better choice.

Best of luck.