Getting more miles
- Thread starter Craigrrr
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Anti_Climax
Well-known member
The number everyone wants is energy-to-empty (kWh). The miles of range can't tell us energy capacity without knowing the Wh/mile it's using to give that estimate, using one unknown to determine another unknown. The range changes because the Wh/mi average is updated as you drive, making the range estimate even less useful for estimating energy capacity.
You can ballpark the energy capacity by changing the view to show the Wh/mi gauge where it will show a blue "cup" around the gauge. That should be the Wh/mi it's using to estimate the range. Multiply those together and it will give the Wh of energy currently available. Divide by the current battery percentage (charging screen on the center UI) to get an estimate of the full battery capacity.
The better way is to check is to charge to full, clear a trip meter, drive to near 0, park and run the heater until you reach 0 and look at the kWh it shows on the trip meter.
The best way is to use an OBD adapter and ForScan to read out energy-to-empty.
Can we sticky this reply anywhere?
As for knowing it it's been replaced, there may be a label under the plastic in the back showing rev or manufacture date. Should also be able to pull that with ForScan.
You can ballpark the energy capacity by changing the view to show the Wh/mi gauge where it will show a blue "cup" around the gauge. That should be the Wh/mi it's using to estimate the range. Multiply those together and it will give the Wh of energy currently available. Divide by the current battery percentage (charging screen on the center UI) to get an estimate of the full battery capacity.
The better way is to check is to charge to full, clear a trip meter, drive to near 0, park and run the heater until you reach 0 and look at the kWh it shows on the trip meter.
The best way is to use an OBD adapter and ForScan to read out energy-to-empty.
Can we sticky this reply anywhere?
As for knowing it it's been replaced, there may be a label under the plastic in the back showing rev or manufacture date. Should also be able to pull that with ForScan.
Just to add a little Anti above, fold down the rear seat and you should see the upper battery disconnect. Remove the black plastic surrounding that disconnect...which spans the width of the rear seat. In the passenger side, there should be a label that will indicate the rev number as well as the battery capacity.
At face value, if 75 miles +/- is what you need, you are in good shape.
but for curiosity sake, if you are getting 70+ miles on the original battery, you would have to be a very mild driver: slow starts, gentle braking, etc. if you have the replacement battery, 33.5 kWh with 75 or so miles of range, then you might be a rather aggressive driver, fast starts, uphill with the heater on. Every situation is different... This is just an initial thought without much data to go on.
At face value, if 75 miles +/- is what you need, you are in good shape.
but for curiosity sake, if you are getting 70+ miles on the original battery, you would have to be a very mild driver: slow starts, gentle braking, etc. if you have the replacement battery, 33.5 kWh with 75 or so miles of range, then you might be a rather aggressive driver, fast starts, uphill with the heater on. Every situation is different... This is just an initial thought without much data to go on.
Anti_Climax
Well-known member
Not only should charging on 120V not improve the mileage, it can't run the battery temp management on 120V, so the vehicle may need to waste power running the battery heater when you start the vehicle.
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