2018 FFE Wrench codes and battery capacity loss

[hoprocket]

I have a 2018 FFE that recently threw a bunch of codes and has had a significant drop in battery capacity. I'm hoping to get some help with diagnosis and opinions if fixable of if car is a lost cause. I love the car and would like to keep it as long as possible.

A couple months ago I noticed the high voltage contactors clicking on and off, repeatedly and constantly. I unplugged the charger, trickle charged the 12V battery and the problem seemed to go away. I didn't think much of it at the time, but I later pulled the code U0100: BECM lost communication with ECM/PCM. Seems like the beginning of the end. After this event the guess-o-meter seemed off (low) and I noticed regen often didn't work as usual. At the time battery voltage was: HEV_BAT_VAR_V: 0.04 V, HEV_BAT_MIN_V: 4.05 V

Just last week the wrench light came on with the following codes: P0BBE - Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Voltage Variation, P0C30 - Hybrid/EV Battery Pack State of Charge High, P0A1F - Battery Energy Control Module 'A' Performance. Currently the battery voltages are HEV_BAT_VAR_V: 0.36 V and HEV_BAT_MIN_V: 3.94 V.

I performed a run down test a couple days ago which showed 17.1 kW battery capacity, which is about 40% loss if I calculate correctly. ETE currently shows just over 14 kW battery capacity in Forscan. It seems like every time I drive then charge it gets less and less. Has anybody seen these codes or this much capacity loss in a such a short amount of time? Is there any way to force re-balance the cells? What is control module "A"? Is the battery dead or dying? Should I take it into the Dealer? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks

-Tim

[spirilis]

My 2017 is seeing substantial capacity loss fwiw, at 101K miles, but one thing I can offer is I noticed the Rebalance status is usually Disabled by Vehicle when the car's turned on, but midway through charging it's running - so I guess it rebalances while charging, and possibly at the end?

My battery was showing 0.17V variability earlier when driving it down, now while charging it's around 0.36V but I expect that to clean up once it's done charging & balancing.

I'm curious if the FORScan app for PC has more options than FORScan Lite for android, which is all I've used with mine so far.

[hoprocket]

Spirilis, I did see your other post. Our problems do sound similar. What is your battery capacity at? I'm also curious if your voltage variation recovers. I expected mine to get better with balancing, but it didn't. I haven't used FORScan Lite for android, but the options for the PC version seem pretty limited to me, so I'm guessing not significantly more functionality.

[Anti_Climax]

HEV_BAT_VAR_V: 0.36 V and HEV_BAT_MIN_V: 3.94 V.

This is the cause. You have one or more cells that are no longer charging/discharging correctly. Healthy cells will all stay very close in voltage and, since full and empty are dictated by any one cell hitting a voltage limit, that drift will prevent you from using charge left in other cells or prevent you from filling others all the way.

You'd likely have to pull the pack and replace at least one cell or module.

[scottt]

Spirilis, I did see your other post. Our problems do sound similar. What is your battery capacity at? I'm also curious if your voltage variation recovers. I expected mine to get better with balancing, but it didn't. I haven't used FORScan Lite for android, but the options for the PC version seem pretty limited to me, so I'm guessing not significantly more functionality.

Are you still under the 8 year battery warranty? If so, go directly to the dealer, do not pass go.

[hoprocket]

Are you still under the 8 year battery warranty? If so, go directly to the dealer, do not pass go.

Yes, under 8 years. I have an appointment at the dealership on Friday. I'll report back results.

[hoprocket]

So, apparently I didn't have an appointment today. I had a "check in" at which I described the problems and they took my info and told me it would be 2-3 weeks before they could even look at the car. I got in their system queue and have to bring it back when they call. The experience did not give me a warm fuzzy. When I got there and told the greeter I had an appointment to check a battery problem, she initially directed me to the 'quick lane' where they "do oil changes and replace batteries." When I told her that it wasn't that kind of battery she called the service manager and asked me "what kind of car is this?". I spoke with the service manager for a bit about the problem, and at one point he said "I've never seen one of these before." I suspect a long battle to get my battery fixed. The car drives normally other than the reduced range, so I guess I'll just keep driving until I can get it looked at.

[Heima]

In my 2017's charging history, it has twice done the contactors clicking at the end of level 1 charging. When I discovered it, it was about 24 hours after finishing charging, and I had not disconnected the EVSE. This happened with a first generation Fiat EVSE. I calculated the the contactors had clicked about 25,000 times, so I am now dreading an early end of life for them. Ugh. No, not using the Fiat EVSE anymore. Now using a Tesla UMC.

[scottt]

So, apparently I didn't have an appointment today. I had a "check in" at which I described the problems and they took my info and told me it would be 2-3 weeks before they could even look at the car. I got in their system queue and have to bring it back when they call. The experience did not give me a warm fuzzy. When I got there and told the greeter I had an appointment to check a battery problem, she initially directed me to the 'quick lane' where they "do oil changes and replace batteries." When I told her that it wasn't that kind of battery she called the service manager and asked me "what kind of car is this?". I spoke with the service manager for a bit about the problem, and at one point he said "I've never seen one of these before." I suspect a long battle to get my battery fixed. The car drives normally other than the reduced range, so I guess I'll just keep driving until I can get it looked at.

I get texts (from multiple Ford dealers) to bring my car in for an oil change. If I have time to kill, I stop in, pop the hood, and have them try to tell me where the oil goes.....

[Heima]

Better yet, pay for the oil change, and demand that they do it.
If they claim to have done it, then call in the local TV consumer advocate video crew, and have the dealership explain how they didn't commit fraud.
I bought my 2017 used from a Honda dealership. They still email me stuff that I need to bring my Ford in because it is seriously lacking its 50000 mile maintenance, or that they can provide me an extended warranty. Car only has 17,000 miles on it.
Just as the many mortgage lenders that are telling me that I need to refinance, and that they can get me a better rate.
Excuse my language, but I don't have a f&%king mortgage, @$$holes!