Remote start not working

[ITLists]

New problem now since the 12v battery change: remote start not working properly.

Car starts remotely and shuts down after few seconds. Tried with key fob and FordPass app - same result with both.
I've tried setting Climate Control option to Auto and Restore Last Setting.
Tried remote start with heater on and with heater off.
Had the car plugged in to L2 and unplugged as well.

None of these combinations makes any difference.
Anyone experience this behaviour?

[Anti_Climax]

I have and it relates to the 12V battery voltage.

What type of battery did you install? Flooded cell, absorbed glass mat (AGM), something else?

[ITLists]

I have and it relates to the 12V battery voltage.

What type of battery did you install? Flooded cell, absorbed glass mat (AGM), something else?

Regular battery, group 26R. Flooded cell.

What was your fix?

[Anti_Climax]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

[ITLists]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

Wow had no idea about this!
So is the stock battery AGM?

[Anti_Climax]

Correct

[ITLists]

The Electric was set up to run an AGM instead of flooded cell, since it would not have the normal starter cycle current draw to clear the plates.

Flooded cells float at a slightly lower voltage, so a fully charged flooded cell battery will look like an undercharged AGM. They also run at sightly different charge voltages - the slightly higher value for AGM risks hydrogen outgassing on a flooded cell.

My remote start fails in the middle of the summer because the AZ heat causes enough voltage droop to create the same fault.

There should be a config option for the 12V battery type, but it's probably a ForScan config setting. Though knowing the reasoning for using AGM, I'd recommend using that rather than switching to flooded cell.

I checked with local Ford dealer, they say its not an AGM battery. The stock 67R is a regular flooded cell battery.

The 26R is slightly smaller than the 67R so possible that it may not be providing enough power for remote start.

[Anti_Climax]

There is no possible way remote starting the electric focus needs anywhere close to the amount of power required to actually run the starter of an ICE vehicle.

I could well be misinformed about the stock chemistry, but I speak from experience that remote starting and immediately stopping is due to the battery voltage being below the expected threshold. During the summer it regularly throws a diagnostic code after failing to remote start. I'd guess winter is just as bad for others.

On it's own, it's actually very dumb, because it shuts off AFTER it has closed the main contactor and can start topping up the 12V battery from the DCDC converter. It's a behavior carried over from the ICE platform that is intended to save a low 12V battery instead of potentially killing it by running the starter unsuccessfully.

Easy enough to test if you have a battery tender or similar. Put on and see if it remote starts successfully. You can also try issuing other commands through the app first to see if giving it a chance to contact ahead of the remote start helps it see a proper voltage.

[ITLists]

There is no possible way remote starting the electric focus needs anywhere close to the amount of power required to actually run the starter of an ICE vehicle.

I could well be misinformed about the stock chemistry, but I speak from experience that remote starting and immediately stopping is due to the battery voltage being below the expected threshold. During the summer it regularly throws a diagnostic code after failing to remote start. I'd guess winter is just as bad for others.

On it's own, it's actually very dumb, because it shuts off AFTER it has closed the main contactor and can start topping up the 12V battery from the DCDC converter. It's a behavior carried over from the ICE platform that is intended to save a low 12V battery instead of potentially killing it by running the starter unsuccessfully.

Easy enough to test if you have a battery tender or similar. Put on and see if it remote starts successfully. You can also try issuing other commands through the app first to see if giving it a chance to contact ahead of the remote start helps it see a proper voltage.

Yes I agree with everything you're written above... will check the battery voltage in a day or two and report back. What should it read on a healthy battery?

[Anti_Climax]

I have not been able to isolate the specific voltage threshold. If possible, pop the hood when you park it so you don't have to "wake it up" opening the door before you test.

I would check the voltage while it's on and right after shutting off, so you can know how much it's down if/when it fails.