Clunk in Transfer Case (Video)

[CarlPace]

I isolated the problem from my previous post and uncovered a lot more information to share. I'm dreading the ramifications of my findings. The guys at Firestone INSISTED that there was nothing wrong with the car, and Ford won't take a look for two weeks, so I bought some ramps and looked myself. Video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyZoUM3OO6c

Should I even be driving on this thing? And is there a chance in hell that it'll be a DIY repair?

UPDATE EDIT: The clunk sound is that shaft moving slightly out of and back into the case. I'm talkin' like half a centimeter at most.

EDIT 2: Is it possible this was caused by me frequently dropping into "L" to increase aggressiveness of regenerative braking? I assumed this was the same functionality as pressing the brake slightly, but perhaps its rougher somehow?

Thank you.

Fun Anecdote: Back when I thought it was a mount issue (Special thanks to Anti_Climax), the guy at Ford making the appointment literally said, "It's electric so it doesn't have a motor. I'm not sure if it even has mounts."

[Anti_Climax]

Running in L is probably less intensive than hitting the brakes for the same speed drop. It should not break anything.

Not only does it have mounts, the rear mount for this electric motor was used BY FORD as a replacement for the stock one on the RS ICE Focus - specifically because it was built a bit sturdier than the original to handle the sharper torque curve that electric motor has.

There may be a recall that applies to that part. If they can't look up the mounts, I wouldn't expect them to get the recall run down. You should be able to search on the Ford site directly.

[CarlPace]

Ok, good to know this wasn't a self-inflicted injury from "L."

I wish it was just a mount. There are so many videos of people swapping them into their ICE cars. But, the more I feel around, it's clear that the mounts are solid and the sound/instability is coming from somewhere inside the... is it called a transfer case?

It's looking like I'm about to be out around $2k (pending my visit to ford) for parts and labor, unless someone here has some fancy ideas. Sadly it appears as though the only recalls for powertrain are either software-related, or for a different year (mine is a 2014).

[Anti_Climax]

Might be able to find that from a junked car, keep an eye out

[CarlPace]

Oohhh, this is pertinent information… any advice on finding something that matches?

[Anti_Climax]

Bama noted a place in his SOBDM thread. Probably best to wait until the dealer confirms exactly what's broken and how.

[triangles]

Not sure how it is with the FFE but on my Escort ZX2 there was a little clip in the splines of the half shaft that held it into the transmission. Not sure how it's held in on the FFE. Definitely should not be able to freely move it in and out of the TCM that much. From your video it just looked like the normal backlash in the differential spider gears. Assuming you are out of warranty, it might be worth draining and filling the gear lube. If it comes out like glitter glue then that is bad news. Ford won't do anything but offer to replace the TCM (inverter, motor, gears) for more than the car is worth.

[Heima]

From the video, it looked like that was the LH CV joint. RockAuto has a trakmotive for $75, or a Motorcraft for $144.
Also, what about the differential recall?
http://www.myfocuselectric.com/ford-iss ... -vehicles/

[Anti_Climax]

That was the recall I was thinking of. Thanks for finding it.

[skyguy_6153]

Hopefully it isn't the issue I had with my 2012 FFE (spider gears took a dump). I will do post on here pretty soon, but longy story short I bought a 2018 motor/tranny assembly from https://www.car-part.com for $350 (came to $650 total when shipping is included. The 2017-2018 assembly has stronger internals than the 2012-2017 model years, it all bolts up/ sits in the same. I just searched for 2018 Ford Focus transmission, and chose the EV option. Most salvage yards ship the motor, tranny, DC junction box, water pumps, etc. all together since they all sit/are bolted on the blackframe. BUT even so, make sure to ask for a pic of what they are sending you if the pic isn't provided on car-part yet, as some salvage yards got smart and figured out that you can separate the motor, tranny , and inverter from each other ) and swapped it into my 2012 FFE. The only necessary pieces I kept from my 2012 was the black subframe piece(still using the DC junction box and other accessories that came with my car, not the salvage one. Now I have spare parts ), "extension" for the passenger CV axle (my motor assembly I bought did not come with that extension that goes through the motor to connect the CV axle to the differential. The driver and passenger FFE CV axles are roughly the same length, but their is literally an "extension", for the passenger CV axle that will be needed. Or just clean up your extension and use it in the new assembly) and the TCM/inverter, as your car keys, TCM/inverter, and BCM are linked together by a "key code". If you were keep the 2018 TCM/inverter on the 2018 assembly, it would still be linked to the salvage car it came from, and you wouldn't be able to drive the car. Anyway, I had a weird knocking noise when driving below 20 mph, and the slower I drove, the louder it would get. Along with that, regen activation was much harsher/jerky, especially in L. In stop and go traffic or cruising to a stop in a grocery store parking lot (once again low speed driving below 20 mph), regen in L would literally cause the entire motor assembly and car to start bucking until I came to a stop. Shifting from Park to drive, Park to reverse, and reverse to park was also really harsh, and sometimes would take longer than normal to shift into gear. Fast-forward a couple weeks of dealing with this, driving out to my Grandpa's house, I heard a Subaru style transmission explosion come from the front of my FFE and lost any ability to drive the car . 3-4 weeks of saving cash and waiting for the assembly to come and 10 hours of work later and me and my Dad got the FFE back on the road. Shifting between the gears is smooth as butter and much more responsive, and no more harsh regen jerking.