Anyone have the automatic lock/unlock sensors in the door handle stop working? Mine works half the time, and lately not at all. I changed the batteries in my fobs with no luck.
Its under warranty, but thought I'd ask. I have an apt set up with Ford tomorrow.
A common problem with those (they are used on just about every Ford these days).
2018 Cajun Red Chevy Bolt
2016 Magnetic C-Max Energi (lease returned)
2014 Sunset Escape
2014 Thor Axis (V-10)
2013 Focus Electric (lease returned Jan 2016 for the C-Max above)
https://spareelectrons.wordpress.com/
Good question that I can't answer. We have 1 Ford now with those same sensors and its still working (I think--our son drives the car now and he hasn't complained about them).
On that car (a 2014 Escape) they sometimes work and sometimes doesn't work.
2018 Cajun Red Chevy Bolt
2016 Magnetic C-Max Energi (lease returned)
2014 Sunset Escape
2014 Thor Axis (V-10)
2013 Focus Electric (lease returned Jan 2016 for the C-Max above)
https://spareelectrons.wordpress.com/
I see this behavior cyclicly in the winter. Doesn't get crazy cold in AZ but there seems to be a correlation between lower outdoor temps and the door lock sensors not reliably triggering with proximity.
2012 Candy Blue FFE
33.5kWh battery pack
CHAdeMO DC Fast Charging
Anti_Climax wrote:I see this behavior cyclicly in the winter. Doesn't get crazy cold in AZ but there seems to be a correlation between lower outdoor temps and the door lock sensors not reliably triggering with proximity.
I think you're on to something, because they've been working flawlessly in the 20's-30's. I had issues in single digits.
If someone else has their hand on another door handle, that will keep the driver (person with the key) from being able to open their door....at least on my 2012. I don't think that's the case here, but thought I'd mention it just in case.
Not sure this is your problem, but I did have a problem with the buttons on my remote. If it only happens with one remote and not both and the lock and unlock work with the button inside the car, then maybe this will apply to you.
The buttons on the remote basically have a silver cap over some gold/exposed traces on the little circuit board. The cap for each button is not adhered to the circuit board, but rather, the rubbery membrane that sits above each switch.
Carefully separate the remote as if you were going to remove the battery and look at the buttons on the other side. Check to see if the silver caps are nicely aligned. The more used the button, the more likely it might have moved. If this is what you see, then that is your problem.
To fix mine, I pulled the silver cap off of the rubbery button and positioned over the circuit board and put a strip of scotch tape over it. Used a sliver of tape for each button as to not interfere with the other buttons. Make sure they are exactly centered. The tape will keep it from moving around.
I did this fix years ago and didn't have any trouble until the 2nd remote started to do the same thing. Same fix applied and both remotes work perfectly.