jmueller065, I read that article about vampire drain. I think part of the problem is there is no "off" button on the Tesla. You literally get out and walk away when the phone key gets out of BT range the car locks and "shuts down." Apparently Tesla's TMS is always active. Although supposedly disconnecting the 12V does shut everything down and disconnects all loads on the HV battery.
Carbuff, I consider the "design flaw" of the ffe the fact that there is nothing to prevent misbehaving modules from drawing on the 12V when they should be off and no data logging of what didn't shut down when it should have. By design the FFE and for that matter any car with keyless entry must have a small load on the 12V battery since you can't monitor for the presence of a fob without power. Most cars can do this with well under a 50mA load on the 12V battery. Most automotive 12V batteries should last more than a month with this type of load.
Since heat damages a lithium battery I supposed I could live with some vampire drain in extreme heat but there's no excuse for it sitting in a 71F garage. Cold really doesn't harm a battery so there's no need to waste energy to heat the battery. The only cold consideration I am aware of is that you really should heat the battery before you charge it when it is cold to avoid battery damaging reactions that happen at subfreezing temps.
If the Tezlab app is accurate I lose about 14 miles of range per day the car just sits.
That's almost 100 miles per week!!! Hopefully they can fix this with an OTA. If not, I found a key fob controlled 12V disconnect switch
when I was at my wits end with my FFE 12V issues. I think this may be what I use with my Tesla to stop the HVB vampire drain when I park the car for extended periods of time. The 8.5mA draw on the 12V battery should not be a problem and if I put the battery on a tender, in theory I should be able to store it for years and only lose a few battery %. Not that I would, it's too much fun to drive.