I meant bottom in that you have lost the ability to draw the cells down fully, but they likely still charge up to the correct voltage. Not sure what your warranty terms are but if it's still in warranty it seems like something that should be covered. I don't know if they ever noted some specific cap...

Current draw from cells is usually in terms of the cell capacity versus the hours it takes to discharge. So a 1C draw on a 15Ah cell would be 15A for an hour. Generally the C ratings are very close within the same chemistry and form factor. But even if they differ here they would have to be *extreme...

It sucks but you definitely do not need to remove anything to get that disconnect out. I've removed and reinserted it without even jacking up the car.

It's a pain in the ass and you may not have the same amount of luck I did, but it can be done.

That'll do it.

So you lost the bottom 12kWh, which is the most likely failure mode.

Not sure how easy it is to track down modules. Pretty sure the raw cells are not sold outside OEMs, so it will just be salvage offerings.

CarlPace wrote: ↑Mon Mar 13, 2023 10:02 am Perfect. Thank you!

Bear in mind, I'm not speaking from personal experience, going by what I recall hearing before without any other validation.

I believe the combined weight is around 800lb, probably about a 1:3 split.

You had a failure while charging and you got a battery replacement. How was it a waste of time?

It sounds like you haven't tried to charge since, out of fear it will break again - what guidance are you looking for?

The pack stops discharging when the lowest cell hits the lower voltage limit and stops charging when the highest cell hits the upper voltage limit. So if one cell is really bad, it can and will keep you from fully discharging the pack. When it's "empty", what is the total pack voltage? If ...

No problem. Figure that's just generally useful to have on the forum regardless. Kind of surprised I hadn't thought to post it before.