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Thanks for the tidbit of advice.

Sorry I didn't see your post. These connectors are awful and I'd suggest that you don't need to inspect them. They have gotten brittle over the years and they break. The dealer destroyed the one on the driver-side lower battery and I cracked the lifting handle on the lower battery front. I don't...

I posted a schematic I generated on another thread on this site. It might be helpful to you. I'm pretty sure it is correct, but don't rely on it for anything relating to safely working on the battery. https://www.myfocuselectric.com/threads/battery-behind-rear-seat.5303/post-35142

Here are some photos of my contactor replacement of the upper and some from the lower battery. You can see the difference between good and bad. A good contactor will be of uniform color. A bad contactor will have anywhere from a little to a lot of discoloration. The discoloration means that the...

The error codes you are getting are also relevant to a contactor failure. Although you didn't show a contactor error code, you did say that you got positive contactor failures. The positive contactor is in the upper battery behind the rear seat. There are 4 contactors there on the driver side of...

I've replaced contactors 2 times now. I have a newer battery that is less prone for the coolant issue. I like your idea of removing the plugs and monitoring for coolant. I'm not sure if that would prevent an issue, but at least it might give you early detection if it does occur. Although the...

Yeah, the rear/upper battery is a double decker. Half lives in the trunk and half under the car. The lower battery is under the rear seat. I've never been able to get pictures embedded on this site, but here is a link to try. I put together a schematic that will help visualize how they are...

If you are sure it is with the PCM, then my other post will probably not help you other than the comments about the tightly fitting connectors and the grease on the jumper pins to prevent them from corroding. This problem was a big enough issue for Ford in the early days where they put out a TSB...

A P0A0A can also be at the batteries. There are 4 locations and 9 connectors with the interlock pins. If any kind of work was done on the battery at any time, then checking the connectors is a must. 2 of the connectors are these lever type lock-down connectors that are brittle. So don't...

77k on a 2012. Battery swapped 2x. Last one was at 46k with a new 33.5KWh battery.

Just an update in case anyone searches for this. When I dismantled the lower battery to replace *both* the contactors, I found that even some of the smaller connectors have the interlock jumper in them. So at the connector behind the driver side rear tire, it isn't just the large connector that...

I haven't had LRR tires on my car for awhile and Costco always put them on my car, no problem. I knew they wouldn't put a different sized tire on, but I didn't even think twice about LRR or not. It might just be the person you talked to, but you might try again but call them first.

The pack should be safe unless a contactor is stuck closed, but you are right, the service disconnect removed is the best assurance of no harmful voltage exposed.

I had thought of this and I think it is possible from reading previous posts here, but it is a total DIY solution. I was thinking to play with an ESP8266 or ESP32 (An Arduino with WiFi capabilities) and put a Can bus hat on it. Then write some software to pick certain data off of the can bus and...

I don't disagree. However, around here, they are hard to find. There was a non Chargepoint unit in front of Whole Foods that was free and I used it a few times, but now, it is always occupied...and if it isn't, its probably broken. Early on in 2012 - 2014, I could plan to charge at a free...

My experience with Chargepoint in SoCal is that most all of them charge...you money...and your car :). The ones at my work charge $0.25/kwh and after 4 hours, an additional $0.05 per minute...yeah, they want you out. They used to just charge by time. Since SCE jacked up electricity rates for...

You can get some of the basic information summarized on the screen left of the speedometer. Use the top left steering wheel controls to get the display to show battery and usage data and then you can use the up and down on the steering wheel controls to get a display that shows a good amount of...

I've done this work and it isn't hard. I have instructions on the Ford Focus Electric Owners' Group on Facebook. Go to that and and request to be a member. Once in, search P0AA1 and look for my writeup. Pictures and everything. Here is an idea of what I did. -Buy 1K high voltage gloves -Buy an...

I think you posted on the FB group, but I'll reply here as well. P0A0A is the interlock. There is a little jumper wire at many or all the high voltage connectors. It has nothing to do with the high voltage connection itself, but is part of a daisy chain of connections that goes from connector to...

You will need to get the scanner working to see exactly what is wrong. A common thing that I've seen happen to others as well as myself are the interlock circuits don't get connected well. On the upper battery pack, you have the service disconnect as well as that cover that covers the high...