Recent content by Omen87

I think that's from the sheer torque of the electric motor. I find pretty much every morning when I take off out of my driveway and the wheels are turned I spin the inside tire. :lol: Or any time it has rained and I start from a stop I spin the tires on the white road paint.

Yeah, I'm not sure either. It says if the battery drops below 11.7v it will disconnect. Then a small load change will reconnect it, such as stepping on the brake pedal...but if the battery is already disconnected then how can there be a load change? Also, I'm not sure that I want to gamble $100...

I wonder if something like this would work? PriorityStart! 12-Volt-Pro-SP PriorityStart Automatic Battery Protector

It took almost a year. Left work tonight at 11pm. Got in my car, hit the power button, and everything starts flickering. :| Had to have a buddy come jump me to get home. It's a fairly new battery, too. I replaced it about 6 months ago with a new Motorcraft battery from the dealer. I wish...

I'll have to pass that on to my dealer once they have the door latches in for my recall. I'd like them to do the same to mine.

The FFE's battery is an oddball size. It's a group 67 battery that is only used by the FFE and the C-Max. It's pretty small with less than 400CCA, but it doesn't see the high amp draw of a traditional starter. You may be hard pressed to find an AGM battery that fits. I found this post over at...

I guess I might have to pick one of those up. My car has had all its recalls and updates except for the door latches which I have scheduled with my dealer on the 28th. I might ask them to plug it in to the diagnostic computer and see if it has any software updates available to it that might...

Has the overarching solution to the dying 12v batteries been a software update? When I bought my '12 FFE last December I started having a dead battery a couple months later. I chalked it up to a bad battery. The car had a fairly new (dated 2/16) battery in it, but it was a cheap no-name battery...

Before I replaced my battery, I never once got the warning notification or text message that the 12v battery was low. I double checked to make sure that those notifications were turned on in MyFord Mobile and they were. MFM just seems to be fairly unreliable.

This is starting to seem a little ridiculous that after 5 model years of the FFE the same problem is plaguing the '17s as it did the '12s. I had to replace my 12v battery a few weeks ago. Although I think it was just a crap battery. It was barely a year old, but the battery had no labeling on it...

Yes, the car has an option called "Value Charge" that allows you to specify when the car should charge. This can be set by location. Your "Home" profile can be set to value charge, where as any other location can be set to "Charge Now". Your five hour estimate for 120v charging is about right...

brb, googling how to sabotage lithium ion batteries without killing myself... /s ...maybe

I've given mine fits by accidentally letting of the brake while hitting the power button to turn it on. It throws "starting system fault", "stop safely now", among other things that I can't remember. It's sensitive. :lol:

20k seems like a pretty short life for a LRR tire. The compound is harder on a LRR tire to gain efficiency over traction. Come on. You know you love those silent burnouts. Don't lie to us. :lol:

The FFE uses a liquid active cooling sytem. If it is cold outside and your car is plugged it it will heat and circulate the coolant around the battery to keep the battery at a more appropriate temperature. And vice versa if it is very hot it will circulate coolant to try and pull some heat away...