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ATL-FFE

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2016
Messages
73
Hi, new guy from Atlanta. 2013 Black w/ leather. & 24K miles. I picked up the car from the first owner for $7500. The car works perfectly for my situation, couldn't be happier with the it.

I had it tinted, took the electric badges off, took all that junk out of the hatch area for more room, converted most lights to LED (where possible), and did the headlight mod for the LED strips.

Pulled some 8-2 romex for a L2 EVSE, just need to finish that up.
 
ATL-FFE said:
Hi, new guy from Atlanta. 2013 Black w/ leather. & 24K miles. I picked up the car from the first owner for $7500. The car works perfectly for my situation, couldn't be happier with the it.

Pulled some 8-2 romex for a L2 EVSE, just need to finish that up.
Welcome and you got a killer deal. I'm confused about the 8-2 romex. Don't you need to use 8-3?
 
No, the run is dedicated to the EVSE, I have no plans to make a subpanel and run 120v circuits on it. So, no neutral is required.
 
Ground is always supplied, and doesn't count as a conductor in the designation (because it's not!).

In 240v wiring, you've got the hot legs (black and white) which connect to each bus bar in the panel. The white wire should be noted as a hot wire (labeled as such on both ends, and anywhere there's a junction where its stripped out of the jacket.

The reason to run 8-3 is to get the both legs plus the neutral. You need the neutral if you're running any single phase load on the other end. That's why I mentioned the subpanel and 120v loads. Some 240v loads use the neutral to drive a 120v component (like the control board/clock/timer inside a dryer).

I have no need for more circuits in the garage, this is dedicated. If I ever bought a Tesla or something with a higher power requirement, I would have to pull 6-2 on a 50A circuit (you're supposed to round up, 8AWG NM is rated for 40A, 6AWG for 55A) . But for the forseeable future, 8-2 on a 40A circuit is fine.
 
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