First of all i just like to say hi to all from a new user, from Norway.
I've had my electric focus for almost 2 years now and i'm fairly happy with it. Have to say that the european focus manufactured in Germany lacks a lot of vital options that you guys have in the US - such as go times or being able to preheat the car via mfm, touch screen (heck there is no mfm in europe whatsoever). This winter is one of the coldest i have experienced in the last 8 years here and without the possibility to preheat the car you can guess that my range takes a very big hit. It's currently -26C (-14,8F) and the heater stays at 5+ KW a very long time even tho i set the temp at 18C / 64F.
Anyway back to the topic. While searching for options to improve the power drain of the heater i've came across some 1st gen (2011-2012) nissan leaf users that have succesfully modified the power drain with some fairly easy modding. Seen that they mention that the 2011 leaf has the same type of resistive heater as the focus has.
Here is the topic : http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=11412
They actually have 3 methods of resolving the issue tho i think nr 2 and 3 are best.
I know they are very different cars but maybe we can get method nr 2 to work on our cars?
There is also this thread where some users sell an upgraded Leaf climate control module. Think its just a regular module that they modify like in the other post. Anyway they mention :
With our upgrade, You will now NEVER have heater operation, regardless of set temperature / car temperature, unless at least one of these conditions is true:
1. A/C button is illuminated.
2. Rear Defroster is on.
3. Climate Control timer engages.
I found that controlling the heater with the A/C button is the best and most intuitive. Also, anytime the system is in Auto, the A/C button is illuminated, so this new method is actually more flexible. You can now run any aspect of the system under manual control, and still choose to have heat (or not). You can also have front defrost with no heat or A/C, or just Heat. You also now don't need to run the rear defroster in most "manual" conditions where you still want heat, as during testing we discovered it's on a timer and doesn't stay on.
Here is the 2nd thread :