current lease pricing

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tapperjimd said:
hello what is the current pricing of a 15k zero down lease for 3 years?
There are a few threads where people have posted their lease deals. Check out those threads for the latest info that anyone has shared. This is the main thread you should check out: http://www.myfocuselectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=992
 
You can check the current Ford lease deals with current incentives (lease cash) at the Ford website for the selected FFE and options and mileage in your zipcode.
If you can make a lower price deal with a local dealer, you should get even lower lease price.
 
As the other forum hasn't been updated I can give you what I recently just got for a deal

Ford FFE 2015 White Platinum 12K miles $159 a month with no money down

$30,645 for a sticker price.

This is a New England deal
 
Might you be willing to post your purchase details? What was the negotiated final price? I am also shopping in New England (CT). Thanks!
 
tapperjimd said:
I am paying $306 for 3 years 15k miles zero down

I'm hoping you haven't secured this deal yet I think you can do better for a zero down lease on the Ford Focus. I would say $229 or less is the goal for most people ($249 at 15K). I was able to get $159, but this includes a in addition to the standard ($8750 Ford cash) $1,000 returning Electric owner cash along with $500 college grad cash
 
maineffe2015 said:
As the other forum hasn't been updated I can give you what I recently just got for a deal

Ford FFE 2015 White Platinum 12K miles $159 a month with no money down

$30,645 for a sticker price.

This is a New England deal

How many months is your lease? Do you know what the residual value is?
 
maineffe2015 said:
tapperjimd said:
I am paying $306 for 3 years 15k miles zero down

I'm hoping you haven't secured this deal yet I think you can do better for a zero down lease on the Ford Focus. I would say $229 or less is the goal for most people ($249 at 15K). I was able to get $159, but this includes a in addition to the standard ($8750 Ford cash) $1,000 returning Electric owner cash along with $500 college grad cash


Can you give more detail?

How many months you leased for?
Is this standard for all ford dealer - $8750 Ford cash
 
My lease is almost up. I started shopping the dealers but have not been getting any good prices. Has anyone returned there 3 year old car and got another one.
 
Leo said:
My lease is almost up. I started shopping the dealers but have not been getting any good prices. Has anyone returned there 3 year old car and got another one.
The best deals are usually in September, might be better in late December too since thats the end of a quarter.
 
Leo said:
My lease is almost up. I started shopping the dealers but have not been getting any good prices. Has anyone returned there 3 year old car and got another one.

Can you go month to month until pricing gets a bit better?
 
ford.com gives a $266 a month for a 36 month lease with nothing down but $966 drive off fee. Back in the day we would call that $966 down. I was hoping to do better than that. when i go to a dealership its like the have no idea about what ford.com says. It's crazy. One dealership wanted almost a $100 more a month. has anyone got a good price on a lease recently?

Thanks Leo
 
Leo said:
ford.com gives a $266 a month for a 36 month lease with nothing down but $966 drive off fee. Back in the day we would call that $966 down. I was hoping to do better than that. when i go to a dealership its like the have no idea about what ford.com says. It's crazy. One dealership wanted almost a $100 more a month. has anyone got a good price on a lease recently?

Thanks Leo

Part of the $966 "drive off fee" is most likely the first month's payment of $266. Also, the acquisition fee might be in there.

Thus, there might be little to no capitalized cost reduction, which is true "money down"
 
Rather than negotiating payment, you really should be negotiating the price of the car, and the interest rate (usually called the money factor when leasing, and definitely negotiable, particularly if you have good credit; shoot for .00130 or so, which equates to about 1%). You also need to know the residual value of the car at the end of the lease; this is typically set by the manufacturer and usually not negotiable. For the FFE, this number will be very low, since these cars do not have good resale value. The incentives Ford is offering on these cars is fixed, and comes off of the selling price of the car. The incentives include the federal tax incentive, which is why they are so high (was $9500 the last time I looked). Once you have these numbers, there are leasing calculators out there that will calculate the payment for you. With this approach, you can compare deals from different dealers and know what exactly you are getting. Note that the residual value changes for different lease terms and mileages.

Most people recommend that you do not put money down as cap cost reduction on a lease; reason is, if you total the car early in the lease, that money is likely lost, unless you have gap insurance. The total cost of the lease doesn't change with cap reduction, just how you pay for it (monthly or in one lump sum). Typical lease drive off costs include the acquisition fee (usually set by the manufacturer), doc fees (depends on which state you live in; in California, it is limited by law to $80; in other states, it can be as high as $700), vehicle license fees, and the first payment + sales tax. In a few states (Texas is one of them), you have to pay sales tax on the entire purchase price of the vehicle even for a lease (makes leasing a car in Texas not very attractive).

Keith
 
I realize the advice you are giving is what is generally accepted, but I don't really see the logic. The last four cars I leased , I went in saying:

1. I want such and such a car
2. I want so many miles a year for 36 months
3. I want a zero driveaway lease (i.e., exactly 35 payments), gap coverage included in the lease, and zero fee upon return
4. Tell me the payment including sales tax

The way I see it, those are the only things that matter to me. Amount capitalized, residual, money factor...Don't think I care. What the car costs me is 35 x the negotiated payment

Am I missing something?

P.S.....the first time I did this, I suspected the dealer was going to try to hit me with sort of fees upfront. The sales manager (Sunrise Ford) made it clear: he said "You hand me zero dollars, I hand you the keys. Ford sends you 35 bills" It worked exactly like he said. The buzzword to avoid this seems to be "zero driveaway"
 
michael said:
I realize the advice you are giving is what is generally accepted, but I don't really see the logic. The last four cars I leased , I went in saying:

1. I want such and such a car
2. I want so many miles a year for 36 months
3. I want a zero driveaway lease (i.e., exactly 35 payments), gap coverage included in the lease, and zero fee upon return
4. Tell me the payment including sales tax

The way I see it, those are the only things that matter to me. Amount capitalized, residual, money factor...Don't think I care. What the car costs me is 35 x the negotiated payment

Am I missing something?

P.S.....the first time I did this, I suspected the dealer was going to try to hit me with sort of fees upfront. The sales manager (Sunrise Ford) made it clear: he said "You hand me zero dollars, I hand you the keys. Ford sends you 35 bills" It worked exactly like he said. The buzzword to avoid this seems to be "zero driveaway"

By knowing the other factors, you can tell whether the amount of the payment is truly as low as it can be. You may be leaving money on the table without even knowing it.
 
The way I have handled that is to negotiate with multiple dealers, play one against the other till no further price reductions are available. I figure they can juggle money factor, dealer contributions, lease conquest, etc, whatever to get the payment as low as possible. My experience has been that once they see what is happening, they do whatever it takes to get to the lowest monthly. The dealers have actually gone out of they way to show all the "angles" they included to reach the payment, and have revealed the cap cost, residual, money factor, etc.

Again, I realize the advice you are giving is what's generally accepted, but it's never been clear to me that it really helps.

They other thing that has helped was if there are one or two dealers who seem to specialize in EVs and deal regularly with forums. Here in Los Angeles, Keyes and Rydell seem to be the major players with Volts. Carson Toyota probably sold most of the RAV-4 Evs in Southern California. Unfortunately, I haven't seen anybody trying to take on that position with the FFE.
 
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