Interior LED light upgrade

I have replaced the two dome lights with LEDs and the two trunk lights also.

Lamp source was Super Bright LEDs.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/

Dome light LED used was a WLED-WHP5 natural white. This LED produces white light with blue-ish tint to it. LED brightness is 40 lumen. Power used is 0.7 watts the regular bulb uses 5 watts. This has a similar brightness to the standard lamp. You will need two.

Trunk light LED used a WLED-WWHP-TAC Warm white. This LED produces white light. LED brightness is 70 lumen. Power used is 1.8 watts the regular bulb uses 5 watts. The LED is about 50% Brighter than the regular lamp. You will need two. You can also use a WLED-CWHP15-TAC cool white that is rated at 100 lumen. This bulb has a blue-ish tint to it.

To open the dome light pull down on the rear part of the light fixture that is pressed up against ceiling. Don't pry on the round lens.
The trunk light lens can be opened using a flat blade screw driver on the end closest to the rear seat.

I'm suprised they aren't LED already? I'm going to switch mine too! Thanks

Are the tailights LED?

I have switched most of my house lights to LED saving 80% from my old lights. Cree has new LEDs at Home Depot coming March 21, 2013 for under $10. Very high quality. I odered some online from Cree. Their price has dropped from $90 to $9.97.

The only exterior lights on the FFE that use LEDs are the "eyebrows" over the headlamps and the turn signals on the side mirrors. All others are standard incandescent automotive bulbs (which seems strange, and a shame, for such an otherwise advanced car).

That said, I do wonder if the horizontal "strips" in the middle of the rear lights use LEDs, but as they only illuminate with the incandescent lamps (just below them), it is hard to tell. AFAIK, the Euro version of the Focus does use LEDs for the strips, and the strips can also be turned turned on by themselves (daylight running mode?) -- or, at least I've seen photos like that.

On my FFE, I am in the process of fitting LEDs in the front/rear turn signal lamps, brake lamps, and reverse lamps. The next time I have the rear assemblies apart, I will see if I can isolate the LED strips (to see if they are indeed illuminated using LEDs).

I may also fit LEDs in the interior lamps at some point (thanks to the advice from jeffand).

WattsUp said:

The only exterior lights on the FFE that use LEDs are the "eyebrows" over the headlamps and the turn signals on the side mirrors. All others are standard incandescent automotive bulbs (which seems strange, and a shame, for such an otherwise advanced car).

That said, I do wonder if the horizontal "strips" in the middle of the rear lights use LEDs, but as they only illuminate with the incandescent lamps (just below them), it is hard to tell. AFAIK, the Euro version of the Focus does use LEDs for the strips, and the strips can also be turned turned on by themselves (daylight running mode?) -- or, at least I've seen photos like that.

On my FFE, I am in the process of fitting LEDs in the front/rear turn signal lamps, brake lamps, and reverse lamps. The next time I have the rear assemblies apart, I will see if I can isolate the LED strips (to see if they are indeed illuminated using LEDs).

I may also fit LEDs in the interior lamps at some point (thanks to the advice from jeffand).

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The turn signal lamps on the rear view mirror are amber (yellow) lamps, not LEDs. The LEDs on the rear tail lights are the two red stripes below the backup light.

The puddle lamp on the bottom of the rear view mirror I replaced with a WLED-WHP5 cool white LED.
The turn signal lamp on the rear view mirror I will try and replace with a WLED-AHP5 amber LED.
Please note that these LEDs come in different colors. So be careful when you place your order.

LED tail lamp replacement bulb selection is more complex.
The bottom light is the running light. For this I selected 3157-R18-T Red LED.
For the top brake light I recommend the 3157-R26-CBT Red CAN bus LED. CAN bus is the system used to detect a burned out brake light. Since the LED replacement draws less current than a regular lamp the computer thinks you have burned out brake light. To get around this you will have to use a CAN bus LED, or a load resister to fool the computer. I have not replaced the brake light with a LED yet.
When a turn signal lamp burns out the blink rate will speed up. So when you replace a lamp with LED it will cause the blink rate to increase, this is because LED draws less current. Replacing the flasher relay, or adding a load resister could cure this problem. I have not tried this yet because of not being able to locate the flasher relay yet.

Recommended rear turn signal 3157-A45-T amber LED.
Recommended Front turn signal 7440-A45-T amber LED.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/----/---/

Use discount code RET71 for 5% off.

Replacing the Bulbs on the rear view mirror procedure made easy.
Don’t attempt to remove the rear view mirror to gain access to the lamps. Most that have tried have broken the mirror. Since removal of the mirror is not necessary.

Tools you will need are a narrow flat blade screw driver, and a flash light.

Puddle light
1 Tilt the mirror inward all the way using the key pad remote. Then tilt the mirror up slightly to open the gap up along the bottom edge of the mirror.

2 Use the flash light to aid in your viewing the insides. A long the bottom you will see a grey plug with two wires coming out the rear. Along the edge of the grey plug and black plastic you will see a rib. You will need to align the two ribs when you replace the grey plug.

3 Gently insert the screw driver between the grey rubber plug and black plastic on the bottom side of the plug. Move the plug out a small amount. Then go to the top side and move the grey plug out some more. Repeat the process of alternating from bottom to top moving the plug out slowly. Try and keep the plug fairly strait. Once free hook the wires with a screw driver and pull the end of the plug out through the mirror gap.

4 Replace the bulb, and then make sure the new LED lamp is firmly installed by giving it a small tug.

5 Replace the grey plug back into the hole. Make sure the ribs are lined up. Use the flat part of the screw driver blade to push on the back of the grey plug. Try and push the plug in strait.

The amber turn signal lamp procedure is similar to above except you want the mirror positioned so the opening between the housing and mirror is the greatest along the top outside corner. Note the wires are much shorter on the turn signal lamp. The black rubber plug will only fit halfway out. So you will need to brace the back of the plug with the screw driver when it comes time to install the new LED light into the plug. Make sure the LED installed fully by giving it a little tug to check for tightness. Be sure align the plug properly before inserting it back in hole fully.

jeffand said:

The turn signal lamps on the rear view mirror are amber (yellow) lamps, not LEDs.

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Thanks, good to know. I assumed they were LEDs because they seem to turn on/off so quickly and the manual says something like the lamps "should last the lifetime of the vehicle".

jeffand said:

The LEDs on the rear tail lights are the two red stripes below the backup light.

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I suspected LEDs were in there... I just couldn't be sure because the bottom running light is always on with them, and it seemed possible that its reflector might have been designed to illuminate the strip as well.

It's too bad we can't turn on the LED strips by themselves.... they don't really get much appreciation.

When replacing a lamp be sure and get one that is the same color as your tail light. For a red tail light use a red LED even though the light bulb produces white light. The lens filters out all the other colors only letting just one color through. Use an amber LED for yellow light.

For the cargo area lights I used some dome light replacement panels. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081Q0PXC They are 4x4 5050 warm white LEDs.

I mounted them at the rear most point of the openings where you access the tail lights. The stock wiring harness reaches if you remove the socket from the lens. The lights come with the bulb adapters and work great.



Also replaced the dome lights with these.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009S1DYIC

I tried on of the 3157-R18-T Red LED non CAM BUS bulbs in the brake light. The strange thing is that it came on dimly and was flickering with brake pedal not depressed. A CAM BUS type LED has a current shunt resister that should reduce the voltage so the lamp doesn't come on. This 3157-R18-T Red LED was noticeably dimmer than the stock 3157 light bulb. The 3157-R18-T Red LED is rated at 80 lumen while the CAN BUS LED 3157-R26-CBT only outputs 69 lumens. A good replacement would be the 3157-R45-T that is rated at 165 lumens. Then add a shunt resister to get rid of the LED bulb coming on dimly when the brake lights should be completely off.

www.superbrightleds.com

Sorry this is going to sound a bit stupid, but by puddle lamps do you mean the lights that turn on when you unlock the car on the side mirrors? The ones located at the bottom of the mirrors?

That's right. jeffand's procedure was all about how to replace the bulbs inside the side mirrors (the turn signals and puddle lamps) without actually removing or opening the mirror assemblies.

@jeffand, I hadn’t really noticed that but you are right, they are actually not LEDs. It’s funny and sad at the same time, they should’ve at least tried to replace these later on. Anyways, I’m going to try these LEDs from superbright.com also, let’s hope they can be retro-fitted easily in both the trunk and tail lights. I’m not sure about fitting LEDs in the turn lights as assembly for LEDs will be different as well and it’ll be difficult to find and then even more difficult to fit. If you guys find out any easy solution for the turn signal lamp replacement that’ll be a huge help.

pcb components

The turn signals will blink rapidly if you install an LED. I have not found a fix for this yet. The rate of the turn signals flash is controlled by the GEM module. When it sees a reduction in current draw it thinks lamp is burned out, and flashes rapidly. The recommended procedure is to add a load resister. You could try checking on FocusFanatic for a solution.

Anyone have a schematic of the gem module or whee it is at? It would be interesting to see how it is sensing the current.

jeffand said:

The turn signals will blink rapidly if you install an LED. I have not found a fix for this yet.

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My understanding is that you install an inline resister that provides the same current as a regular turn signal.

unplugged said:

jeffand said:

The turn signals will blink rapidly if you install an LED. I have not found a fix for this yet.

Click to expand...

My understanding is that you install an inline resister that provides the same current as a regular turn signal.

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If, by "inline", you mean wiring the resistor "in series" with the LED bulb, that would be incorrect. The extra load may well stop the rapid blinking, but the reduced current passing through the LED will make it dim, or not light at all. Wiring the resistor "in parallel" will probably give the desired result.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits

What's the point of converting all of these lights to LED? Power or just the principle? If you have to add a resistor in parallel with the LED then you won't be saving any power.

I'm sure Ford probably went the cheap route here. Regular bulbs are still cheaper to design in than LEDs but that will change soon.

Agreed! It would be much better if there was a way to change the circuit detecting the load. Could be as simple as changing a load sensing resistor. However, some of the lamps can be replaced with no problem.

I'm sure cost is a motivator for using regular bulbs; both in cost of the LEDs as well as the design and low volume use of FFE unique components. The power savings is likely not significant enough to justify the expense...although swapping some of the bulbs out is something I think I will do.

paw160 said:

What's the point of converting all of these lights to LED? Power or just the principle? If you have to add a resistor in parallel with the LED then you won't be saving any power.

I'm sure Ford probably went the cheap route here. Regular bulbs are still cheaper to design in than LEDs but that will change soon.

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Partly the principle, partly the cool factor.

Aside from using a lot less energy and have a much longer lifetime, LEDs turn on and off more or less instantly, giving a high-tech look. Regular incandescent bulbs, by comparison, have a slow "ramp up" to full brightness and "ramp down" when going back off. LEDs reach full brightness in a tiny fraction of a second. (Surely you've noticed many modern cars, and certainly many high-end cars using LED lamps all around? The flash of their turn signals seems almost "mechanical".)

There is also a potential safety factor... someone following behind may notice LED brake lamps coming on a split second before incandescents. (Because they actually do.) In my case, the LEDs bulbs I used (V3 Tritons from v-leds.com) are also noticeably more brilliant than the normal incandescents.

And you are correct... with the resistor needed to make the turn signals flash at the correct speed, the circuit will "burn" just as much energy as with a regular bulb. However, turn signals operate relatively infrequently, and no resistor is needed to make the brake and running lamps function properly with LEDs (I have LEDs in my FFE), which are on for a much longer duration, so there is some energy savings overall.

I wanted to thank those that took the time to put the part numbers for the LED lights. I spent about $240 ordering all of them from superbright. They are fantastic! The can bus stop lights work perfect. They are nice and bright. Such a difference from the OEM lights. I got resistors to use for the turn signals and they are great. So I did the interior, puddle lights, all turn signals, stop and the running/parking lights. The only bulbs that don't work are the back up lights. They work but don't fit in the housing. The top is just too big. So I will call them tomorrow and see if I can exchange those for a pair that are a little smaller. I would highly recommend this mod.