Cooling System: On board charger

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davideos

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
465
Location
So Cal
I've got a unique problem. Not sure who can help, but I'll throw it out there. I recently had my HV battery replaced and felt the need to get the Forscan-Lite software and OBD module so I can see what is going on if I have problems. Unfortunately, I've already had the need to use it. My FFE hasn't been charging reliably and has had many charge faults. I started using the Forscan and poked around and found that the charge current was very low and would cycle on and off...all the while flashing the appropriate quadrant of the charge ring making it look like everything was ok. Forscan was showing 2A of current at 240V cycling on for 30 seconds or so and 30 seconds off. The on-board charger at about 150F or more. So I let it rest awhile till the temp got down to 117F. When I started charging again, it would charge at 29A until it got above 150 or so and then start to drop. If left to continue, it would get to 2A and eventually Fault. I also noticed a pump in the engine compartment on the driver's side would kick off...and a bit loud...louder than usual.

Eventually I noticed that the coolant was very low and I got some Motocraft Orange and added it. Pump quieted down a bunch, but I still notice that the charger temp increases and eventually gets too hot as before. Squeezing the coolant lines, it doesn't seem that the hoses are all that full. It seems to me that the coolant system needs to be primed or something to get the air bubbles out. Anyone have a similar experience? I'll likely take it back to the Ford Dealer Monday, but it would be much easier to do it myself if possible and save the hassle of taking to the dealer.

One thing to note...I've very impressed with the Forscan tool. Is there an explanation somewhere of the different measurements and status? For the most part I've been dumping everything and seeing what changes relative to what I'm doing.
 
After HV battery replacement, the coolant filter is supposed to be replaced, along with the cooling system fill and purge procedures (done by the scan tool). This activates the valves and pumps appropriately to purge the system of any trapped air. Not sure whether or not those functions are available in Forscan though.
 
I had wondered about this. I like to do all the maintenance I can myself. Since I bought my FFE I will eventually need to change the coolant. I definitely don't want to get air trapped in the cooling system like it sounds you have. Maybe I'll just do a drain and fill on the radiator and reservoir when it gets nearer the 10 year coolant change.
 
I'll have to look into it more, but I bet it's just opening the coolant valves and kicking on the pumps. Also, regarding the filter. It's a small canister located just above the driver side half-shaft, where it enters the transmission.
 
For the time being, I got it working, but I'm going to call the service adviser and let them make the call. I took the car on a drive to giggle some of the air pockets free and it worked. On my return home, the coolant level was down, but it was definitely flowing. Two of the charger temperatures remained below 100 F, but one crept up slowly. Forscan calls it 'C'. I think the first 2 were more critical. Current sustained 28A until charger temp 'C' got to 150, then it dropped to 19A. As charging progressed, the flow of coolant through the batteries seemed to have fewer and fewer air bubbles.

Yeah, it would be nice if I could get all the pumps going to purge the air bubbles, but I don't think Forscan lets you do anything other than clear codes...but I'm new to it.
 
I make a few attempts to burp the heater line as I think that is the only remaining thing having an issue. When I start the heater, I can see from Forscan, the heater quickly climbing to 120 F, but no hot air exits the vent. The hose in the engine compartment just before it enters the cabin through the firewall is warm and the hose leaving feels empty...definitely a big air-bubble. Anyway, I called my service adviser at the dealer...hope to hear back shortly.
 
On some cars, the heater core can be difficult to burp. I've heard success from raising the front end of the car (or drive up on ramps). Though vacuum bleeding also helps. But yeah, the dealer would be best, since they can go through all the scan tool procedures that they likely didn't do. I'd also make sure they replaced the coolant filter during the repair as well.
 
Thanks. One thing they also forgot to do was tighten down the battery terminals on the 12V battery. I'll be asking the service adviser to go over everything they touched to make sure they didn't leave anything out...including the replacement of the filter. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Just to follow up. Took it to the dealer and had them recheck everything for post battery replacement. The only thing not working was the heater loop and now that is working...although I don't need the heater now...nor did I every really use it :). I had poured over the coolant diagrams and the only way to degas the system is to change the diverter valves and run the pumps...which is what the dealer did.

It is nice to have a 2012 FFE with 30KWhs of useable battery. I think I was in the 15KWh territory prior.
 
The range that popped up this morning after a full charge was 115 mi...which is probably pretty close to my typical driving habit. That includes freeway and some elevation rise and fall.
 
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