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Re: Just bought 2012 Focus EV

Posted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 6:49 am
by Silverrabbit1954
Please go to “Topping of Bad for Battery” topic. They meant topping off. In this string of dialogue, there is a place that states Ford has SOC at 100% actually only charges to 90% of capacity and SOC at 0% actually is 10%. That is 20% of 23 KWh battery - very close to the useable 18 KWh when new. I do use a TurboChord 240v 16 amps. It puts in 3 KWh per hour. I have had a fusion energi, 2015 focus electric, 2017 focus electric and clarity electric. So far with slower charging, very little battery degradation - maybe 1 or 2 KWh after the third year. Battery does not heat up as much with slower charging.

We have one more year on Clarity lease - return Clarity and trade-in Impala for long range Model 3. Payments and insurance would be the same monthly cost. Then purchase Focus Electric for $7917 when its lease up. Wife still feels that we need one gas car. She wants a RAV4 Hybird instead of Model 3. Happy wife for happy life! Maybe Model 3 just like the dream car of teenage years, never realized. We cannot afford a RAV4 and Model 3. Thank God I really like the Focus Electric!

Silver Rabbit

2017 Focus Electric
2017 Clarity Electric
2017 Impala

Re: Just bought 2012 Focus EV

Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 6:37 am
by tinilk
rowekmr wrote:
Wed Oct 09, 2019 1:35 am
I now charge with the 220v charger mainly does it degrade battery more than the 120v supplied charge?
I recall on the Leaf’s forums they suggest to charge battery to 80% vs 100% for better battery life. Does that apply to our batteries?
As Silverrabbit said there's a buffer of about 10% at the top and 10% at the bottom (might be 8% at one end actually if memory serves) of the battery range to help with longevity. This buffer is a much larger % of the battery's capacity than the very small buffers on Tesla or Chevy Bolt batteries, so it's much more important on those cars to limit charging to 80% or 90% than it is on the Focus. Still I personally try not to charge to 100% (which is actually ~90% SOC) and then let it sit like that for days especially if it's hot out.

Level 2 (240 or 208 volt) charging is actually better for battery longevity than Level 1 (120 volts). First of all L2 is slightly more efficient, so you save maybe 2-4% that's lost as heat when you charge on L1. Compared with Level 3 (DC Fast Charging), Level 2 is actually not very fast and the battery chemistry can handle the L2 charge rate very comfortably as long is it's kept cool during charging.

Also L1 only provides so little power (about 1.4 kilowatts) that if the battery is very cold or hot, there isn't any extra power available to condition the battery. So the charger has to warm or cool the battery before it can start charging, then stop warming or cooling once it's charging (or pause while charging and switch back to cooling). When the car is plugged into L2 and has 6 or 7 kilowatts available, that's enough power to use some for warming or cooling the battery while using the rest for charging.

Re: Just bought 2012 Focus EV

Posted: Sun Oct 20, 2019 12:19 pm
by rowekmr
Thanks so I will keep using the Level 2 charger at home.

Re: Just bought 2012 Focus EV

Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 9:25 am
by Anti_Climax
tinilk wrote:
Tue Oct 08, 2019 6:21 pm
If you drive the car for part of the test you'll end up with a lower-than-actual measurement, because regen braking energy that goes back into the battery while driving gets deducted from the trip meter's measurement of kWh consumed.
It's deducted because it went back in and can be "reused". I won't argue that discharging and recharging may skew it a bit with efficiencies taken into account, but when we're talking about capacity that should be the only consideration. And since it's basing that number on the internal "energy to empty" value, when it says one kWh went back in it means that the battery itself shows one kWh of actual stored energy added back.

If you measure the total liquid in a big jug one cup at a time, pouring cups back in won't really impact your total so long as you keep track of what went in versus out and you're not spilling it everywhere.

My driving discharge test came up with exactly what I expected from the brand new pack - so long as it's a highway drive and not stop-and-go even the impact from those efficiencies should be minimal.

Now that I have the OBD scanner/logger, I'd actually be up for to comparing the total energy on the logger and trip meter between heater only, highway drive and stop and go - if only to help others that have to do it with just the trip meter.